Monday, January 14, 2013

Taiwan

I recently just got back from eight lovely days in Taiwan. It was my first solo-trip, and I'm proud to say... I survived it.





All I had when I stepped off the plane were hostel directions, a sheet filled with Lonely Planet research and advice from friends who have been there, and my head. I was nervous and anxious about what was to come. Was I going to find everything okay? Was I going to meet people? Was I going to get everything out of this that I wanted to get out of it? My personality has always been to make plans, see all sides to things, know everything before I go through with it. Korea has somewhat tweaked that side of me. For example, when I was planning my trip to Taiwan, I had first made a decision to not book any hostels and kind of just see where the trip took me. But a week after deciding that, I was feeling so much anxiety, that I realized... this is who I am, so why am I trying so hard to change that. I like to plan things. I like certain things in order... like the roof over my head in a foreign country. So I spent a good deal of time looking up hostels in good locations so that I wouldn't have to worry about where I was going to sleep that night, and instead enjoy my actual time there. I don't like to think I've always played life by the book. I mean, I traveled to New Zealand alone; I bungy jumped the world's second highest bungy; I turned down three grad schools; I came to Korea; I decided to travel to Taiwan, a country where I knew no one and didn't speak the language. Oh yeah.. and alone. Things happened along this trip that I didn't plan for, and to my surprise I was absolutely okay with it. Korea has changed me... for the better. Living abroad has made me more accepting when things go astray, more laid- back, more open to new experiences, and more willing to try new things, because who knows when you're going to ever have that chance again. Enough life talk... back to my vacation!!

When I got to the airport, I had to take a shuttle bus into the city of Taiwan, where I found my hostel no problem. I met a great group of guys there. A few world travelers and an English Teacher teaching in Taiwan. Before we went out that night, I strolled around Shida Night Market where I experienced the chaos that is Taiwanese Night Markets. Side Note: Eating as a solo-traveler can be a real issue if you don't have the right mindset. However, you wouldn't be solo-traveling if you didn't have a certain personality anyway.. haha. Living in Korea for the last 10 months clearly set me up for this, and eating out alone is not a huge deal for me anymore. Basically, there's three options when you're traveling alone. 1. Starve because you're hesitant to try anything new/eat alone. 2. Stop in one of the 1,000+ 7-Elevens and settle for a packaged dinner. 3. Pull up a stool, use your hand gestures and facial expressions to get yourself a fabulous local dinner. Number 3 is exactly what I did that first night... literally. There was a little outdoor stand set up selling these delicious smelling noodles. There were a few empty stools, so I decided what the hell... All I knew in Mandarin was hello and thank you. That's all I had. I pointed, asked for one, and indulged in a delicious dinner, overlooking the massive crowds of Taiwanese shopping through Shida. The next day I got a little lost finding my next hostel, but was saved when a kind Taiwanese man agreed for me to use his phone so I could call for directions. Ramona, the hostel owner of Taipei Fun House, was ironically around the corner, so she and Avivi had their taxi pick me up. (I got a hold of Romona's hostel through John, my recruiter for EPIK. Connections are quite amazing.) Fun story: That night, I realized I forgot  my adapter for my Korean straightener. Romona suggested I just go to the salon to get my hair done. I tried not to laugh, because, well, why would I spend that kind of money just to get my hair done for one silly night. Though when she told me how much it was... NT $180, which is an equivalent $6 USD, I didn't have to hesitate. For 6 bucks, I received a wash, a head massage, and a style. Yeyy to being rich in Taiwan.  I hooked back up with the guys I met the previous night, joined by a new Taiwanese friend, Denise, and we all went out to a popular club near Taipei 101 called Myst. Decked out with a huge waterfall pool.. it was quite the night.
Shida Night Market
What is Taiwan beer called you ask?... Taiwan Beer. bahah



Baker, David, Denise, Urban, and myself
The next day was New Year's Eve. I started it by taking the subway up to Tamshui, a beautiful fisherman's village on the water. I spent a good amount of time walking up the boardwalk, buying souvenirs and trying basically every type of street food available. This included the famous Taiwanese toast coffin, fried bread stuffed with either chicken, veggies, or in my case-  seafood. YUM



























That night, I humored myself by getting my hair done again. When In Taiwan. I decided to stay with Romona and her friends, who included a bunch of foreign English teachers. We all clicked immediately. There's something intriguing about expats meeting for the first time. We just get each other. It's a very easy relationship. Now I don't know if this was ignorance coming from New York, and every New Year's being about Times Square... but I never realized how popular Taiwan was on this day because of the 101. We all took cabs to a foreigner friend's apartment for the sole reason that it was basically in 101's backyard. We all  gathered on the roof, and when midnight struck we were able to watch the amazing display of light. The entire building turned into a firework. It was a beautiful sight. All I kept thinking was that I'm starting 2013 in Taiwan with friends I had only met two hours prior! CRAZY. The night continued with some good old flip cup, Downton Abbey venting, and dancing the night away at a hookah club. One of the girls I met that night was talking about her friends at home who are always complaining about their jobs and financial situations, never having anything new to tell her, and how she is in Taiwan, making good money, seeing the world and learning a new language. I have friends who vent and complain, but I also have friends who love what they do in the States. I respect my friends at home and I am happy for them that they are doing what they love. I also love what I do here. And I am grateful that I have friends who get that and respect it, even though some remain worried about me. I will be home in March 2014 after some last minute traveling. I will start my job hunt and complete my masters.. but for right now I am here, loving every minute of it. This is my life right now. We all have our own dreams and goals. I am living mine everyday. And I'm grateful for it.






Miranda, Jordan, and myself




Beautiful view from the other side of the rooftop









The next morning started my travels to the east side of the country. First up- the coastal city of Hualien, which holds the famous canyons of Taroko Gorge. I really wanted to rent a scooter, but I was told a lot of places don't rent to people without an international driver license. Sad. (Fact: Taiwan's scooter culture is insane. They swerve in and out of everything and everyone, taking up the road and sidewalk. A bit scary.) So I joined a tour bus group, which proved semi-productive. Long story short- I hitchhiked for the first time. I thought I could see some of the scenery on my own and walk to the next bus stop (it said it was only a 5-minute bus ride.) However- due to recent rock falls and construction, that stop was closed and it was another 15-minute bus ride to the next bus stop, which I would NEVER make on foot by that time.. so I had no other choice but to hitchhike. I laughed when it was a lovely old Taiwanese couple in a truck that stopped. I did some pointing on my map, pulled off the familiar confused foreigner facial expressions, a tap to my watch, and a "how long" shrug of my shoulders, and they offered me a ride to the next stop. Lovely people. So I got back on track with the tour group and life was good. During my on-foot journey I made friends with a poor battered-up dog (pictured below) who followed me for an entire kilometer, and really enjoyed my time to myself. I surprised myself that I wasn't exactly concerned that I was semi-lost and on a road to who knows where (literally.) Taroko Gorge was a breathtaking sight. The canyons were incredible. I was intrigued by a famous highway, called the Central Cross-Island Highway, the first means of transport to cross Taiwan's central mountain range. 226 workers were killed during the building of it due to landslides, rock falls, drowning, etc. The Eternal Spring Shrine was built to commemorate these men. The face of Taroko Gorge is constantly changing due to earthquakes and landslides. There are signs every few feet reminding you not to "linger"; "stay close to the wall"; and "don't rush to get in front of others." I recommend a visit to the Gorge to anyone visiting Taiwan who has the time. If not, make the time! Unfortunately pictures don't do justice... but I have a few below.


Sweet lady who made my dinner below. Her daughter and son were trying so hard to communicate with me 


Old Taiwanese women on break at the beach. Notice their scooters.. 
Muaji- Taiwanese rice cakes




Taiwanese take on Korean kimbabp


















Eternal Shrine Memorial








Decided to have a traditional Aboriginal meal for lunch



That night, I headed South to Taitung, a much smaller coastal city, known for a famous bridge where you can feed crazy, wild monkeys. This was the only reason this town was on my agenda. However my hostel owner informed me that I wouldn't have enough time to make it there and back if I had to catch my train to Kenting (my next city). I do have plans to visit friends in South Africa after my next contract, so I wasn't too upset about that. The next morning, I wound up borrowing my hostel owner's bike and explored the city of Taitung on my own. This was my day to get the real feel of Taiwan and its people. It was in this city, where I finally got the stares I had been missing since I left Korea. Taiwan is way more westernized than Korea is. They have been exposed to Western culture for far longer than Korea has. We have to remember- South Korea has only been their own country for about 60 years. There's still a whole generation here who did not have the western influence Korea has today, hence the stares and confusion when they see foreigners in small cities. I grabbed breakfast at The Denim Elephant, which I found off Lonely Planet, and had a delicious tomato noodle soup. I spent a few hours at the beach writing, and then ended my afternoon at a cafe where I ordered a "muffin," which I learned means "belgian waffle" to the Taiwanese. Ha! No need to complain there.
This picture and the one below, were from an old railway station in Taitung turned Art Exhibit.


My outdoor shower at my hostel 







Next up! Kenting! Kenting is a popular beach city right at the southern tip of the country. From Taitung I had to take a train to Fangliao, then catch a shuttle bus across the street to Kenting. When I got on the bus, the man was saying something in Mandarin and it took me forever to get it. He was pointing at me, then outside. I didn't understand why he was telling me to get off the bus while there were clearly empty seats and was trying to hand him money. This resulted in my spinning around in circles because I was so confused. This went on for a full minute. It finally clicked..he wanted me to put my giant pack under the bus. Oh. Hahaha stupid foreigner moment. If this happened in New York, you would be given the dirtiest look when you walked back on to the bus. Not here! We both laughed about it. I arrived in Kenting at about 8pm. It was everything I thought it would be and more! I met a great group of friends, and for the next two days we night market shopped and drank out of a guy's truck- Oh yes, this guy transformed his truck into a bar bolted into the concrete on the side of the road. Appropriately named BAR. We ate way too much street food, including three rounds of crispy mandu (pictured with the chef below). We went on a hike that turned into a walk through farmlands caused by a wrong turn. We got a 30 min. foot massage + 30 min. full body massage for a grand total of $17 USD. Included- free cup of tea before and after. Living the rich life in Taiwan. We discovered a secluded part of the beach where I quickly put together that you needed to be guests at the local resort. We were staying in room "312" for the day. We went swimming and sat under palm trees. Great ending to a beautiful two days.
We found this awesome fruit on our "hike!" 
I became obsessed with these tree's leaves










Rachel and Dave








Our yummy dumplings 

And the guy who perfected them
Looks appetizing huh? 














I left really early the next day to ride the Bullet Train back up to Taipei. I had booked myself a nice hotel room for my last night, which was fabulous. Once I got settled in I decided to venture into the popular Weekend Jade and Flower Markets. I bought a bunch of souvenirs at the Flower market, but the Jade Market was an entirely different story. It reminded me of the scene in Mean Girls when all the girls in the school turn into animals after the Burn Book was released. Rows and rows of tables set up, people selling beautiful but way over-priced jade. I bought myself cheap jade while in New Zealand- I was satisfied with that. The anxiety in this place was enough to give me a heart attack. As I exited the market, I turned the corner and found myself looking at Taipei 101. I thought for a few seconds and decided why the hell not- let's walk to it. It doesn't look that far. Bahahaha! It took me about an hour and half. Very worth it though. The building as I stated earlier, is beautiful. Took a few pictures, and turned back around to my hotel. I picked up some famous Taiwanese beef noodles on the way, settled in to a nice, long, hot bath, and had a marvelous night's sleep.











Confucius in Kaohsiung



Taiwan. Underrated tropical island. Laid-back Korea. Kind, genuine people. I adored this country. I was challenged, and driven, and geared in directions I never thought I'd be in. I fell in love with solo-traveling. I did what I wanted to do. The thing I was most nervous about was that I wouldn't be able to share my experiences with anyone, but that proved partly false. I did share it with people. I met so many wonderful people to do that with. The hardest part is accepting that they may be short-term friends. You have to face reality and know that there's a possibility you might never see them again in person. That said, we are each other's connections around the world. And that makes future traveling so much easier to accomplish.

I had 5 days of camp this past week where I worked with four 3rd and 4th graders. They are very low-level, so I stuck to phonics and was able to work with them one-on-one.


Off to my next adventure, starting tonight. I will take every form of transportation minus boat and bus. Starting with a 3.5-hour 2:18am train to Seoul. 1.5-hour subway to Incheon, 2.5-hour flight to Tokyo. Finally a 12-hr flight to JFK, where my best friend will pick me up!

New York here I come!!!